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hawaiianblue
Member
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Posted: Thursday September 27th, 2007 04:43 pm |
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| Take the top dash rail out too, as they'll be some under the front edge of that. You'll probably need some small sections welded into place too, so the dash rail will have to come out for that.
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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Friday September 28th, 2007 10:34 am |
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hawaiianblue, this has already been done. I had the scuttle area professionally repaired and asked as part of the repair for the area to be soaked with waxoyl, so to speak. This is what started me thinking about doing the rest of the car, and fingers crossed, I'll be stripping the car down this afternoon - waxoyling tomorrow!
If all goes to plan, pics to follow.
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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Monday October 1st, 2007 09:42 am |
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Rustproofing complete!
Pics to follow along with comments/problems/improvements for next time, soon!
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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 12:20 pm |
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Right here goes...
I stripped the car down on Friday - this consisted of the door cards and furniture, companion boxes, rear seat (for better access), the boot was emptied (and fuel tank moved) and the boot lid card taken off.
Once all this was removed, I investigated 'entry' points. Its amazing the number of holes that you can use without resorting to drilling.
For the sills there are two holes either side of the crossmember under the front seats, covered by rubber grommets. (Just make sure when you try and refit them afterwards you don't end up pushing them through into the sill...doh). This means you don't have to remove the bottom bolt od the seat belt too.
In front of the companion boxes there are square plastic inserts which can be removed. I didn't take the rear side cards out - I wasn't too sure how (I could see how they were retained at the top but couldn't work out what was retaining them at the bottom!)
All this took about an hour and a half of leisurely work.
At this stage I chose to leave the car overnight as (Sod's law) it had started to rain 10 minutes before I could get the car under cover.
Saturday morning I started rustproofing.
Lets get straight to the point - the hand pump kit is.......adequate! Its never going to match a compressor with a good lance/extension probe, but this is what I had. As you might be able to see, the 5 litre tin (Finnegans Waxoyl) is old - very old! I've probably had this for 10 years. The 2.5 litre pressure tin (Hammerite waxoyl) is new. Following the advise on the tin I tried to dilute the waxoyl with white spirit. I was only able to get a very small amount into the new, full pressure tin so ended up putting the tin in very hot water for 30 mins. This allowed the stuff to flow but don't be under any illusion that the extension probe/pressure tin combination is going to produce a spray! I expect there to be a nice thick layer on the bottom of the sills but very little if any on the upper surfaces, for example. The spray attachment is better but still produces a thick coating. I think this is why there is so much potential wastage as well.
I did one side at a time starting with the A panel area using the door strap hole. This worked well with the passenger side but not so well on the drivers side for some reason (cables inside?). I pushed the extension in as far as it would go, slowly pulling it out until I reached the top of the hinge strap.
Next I did the sills using both of the access holes. I checked to see if there was an access hole in the crossmember under the seat but couldn't find one and chose NOT to drill a hole in it. I did look at trying to do the inside of the rear side panels using the extension probe but this was when I realised how poor the spraying tability of the extension is.
I did the door posts next.
Then I did the insides of the companion boxes - I found no need to remove the seat belts, using the spray attachment it was accurate enough not to coat the parts. Likewise, the plastic inserts of the companion boxes don't need to be removed, simply lifted up on the seatbelts.
I then moved around to the boot area, doing behind the tank with the spray attachment. While good enough you can see it does give quite a thick covering:
and the battery box:
as well as the right hand side, getting into all the nooks and crannies. I finished off by doing the boot lid including all the painted area which is covered by the boot lid board.
I then repeated the opporation on the drivers side. At this point I discovered the waxoyl in the extension probe had 'set' and the pressure available with the tin/pump was not enough to clear it. I attempted to clear it using white spirit (unsuccessfully!) and ended up putting the tube into a bucket of hot water (which I didn't want to do). I made sure I ran some waxoyl through the tube in an attempt to drive any remaining water out. It was at this stage that I used the 'old' waxoyl too. Now this had a very different (thicker) consistancy to the new stuff and I used about 20% white spirit to dilute this (20% being the top amount advised on the tin). This made it thinner than the new stuff (to be expected) but still not thin enought o spray with the available equipment/pressure. I have noticed that now, 4 days later this waxoyl is still dripping out of the bottom of the drivers door (but not the sills).
Next I waxoyled the easily accessible areas under the bonnet, being careful to try and not cover any electrical components (waxoyl claims it is okay to do so, common sense prevailing of course) and any area which is likely to get hot! Having some waxoyl left over I then covered the underbody areas which I hadn't covered previously with the black waxoyl, including covering the brake/fuel lines. The front and rear valances got a good covering too, despite being previously done black.
The last job was to have a cup of tea to allow things to settle before ensuring the drainage holes were clear, and then clean up the mess (which to be honest wasn't as bad as I was expecting).
So what would I do differently next time?
1. Use a compressor - I'm looking at doing my other car in the near future and will use the hand pump if thats all I've got, but and now looking for a 2nd hand compressor and suitable extension probe.
2. Look at using the door light switch hole to ensure a good coating of the A panel area (we all know how they rust there!)
3. Use only new waxoyl (not a problem now the old stuff has gone!).
4. Do all the waxoyling which requires the use of the extension together, thereby stopping the tube becoming blocked.
5. Take more time over it. It didn't take as long as I was expecting and I'm sure a better more comprehensive coverage is easily obtained (particularly with better pressure giving a thinner layer).
I realise there will be other areas which will need to be done next year, most notably the scuttle panel area, and please feel free to tell me if I've missed any areas!!! The waxoyling took only about two and a half hours to do, so in all probably a full Saturdays work from stripping to finishing putting back together and used about 6 litres of the stuff (if you can get a better spray and minimised wastage you could probably get away with 5 litres, bearing in mind I didn't cover the entire underneath).
So there you go, one day a year to help the longevity of you beloved Mini - not too much to ask is it?
Last edited on Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 12:34 pm by Graham Bichard |
blickling
Member
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Posted: Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 01:55 pm |
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Well done Graham and thanks for taking the time to photograph the stages and put it all in a posting. My girl lives in a garage and has only seen 500 dry miles this year, but I want to use (though not abuse) her a lot more next year. I really need to the job you have done and thankfully have the compressor, but any suggestions about suitable air application tools/lances anyone and where to get them (Machine Mart, Mail order companies)? Richard 
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 03:39 pm |
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Yes thanks Graham and it's good to know there isn't too much mess to clear up afterwards.
How easy was it to remove the plastic cover (from the "B" posts?) as seen in the 7th picture down? That's something I've never tried doing because I've always been afraid of breaking it.
It'd be worth giving the rear subframe a coating too and don't forget to spray some down those little holes located each side of the boot floor, just behind the rear light clusters. The one on the right usually has a little grommet fitted to a smaller hole, so you don't have to disturb the rear fog lamp wiring running from the larger hole next to it (don't know how you'd fare if you have 2 rear fog lamps though?).
Oh and the rear companion box cards usually come out with a bit of a tug, but I don't think that there's any need to remove them.Last edited on Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 03:48 pm by taffy1967 |
jonathan
MCR Member
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Posted: Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 08:12 pm |
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I borrowed a hand pump to Waxoyl mine, but struggled. Had can in a bucket of very hot water, which helped and produced a very good spray mist. But the nozzle kept blocking more and more often. In the end 5 seconds spraying was followed by 1 munutes un-blocking. In the end I used a brush and got a pretty good coverage of the wheel arches.
I've now found a local garage who will waxoyl. It's such a messy, frustrating, smelly job that I'll just pay to get all the box sections done.
In my opinion, the best rust prevention is to keep out of the rain 
Last edited on Wednesday October 3rd, 2007 08:18 pm by jonathan |
Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Thursday October 4th, 2007 07:05 am |
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Jonathan, you're right - it is messy (but not as bad as I was expecting) and bloody smelly!!! (It's the wrong time of year to have all the windows open!) But it was quite satisfying to do, wasn't nearly as hard, or take as long, as I was expecting, and of course, being tighter than a gnat's chuff, much cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
I would be interested to know how you managed to get a spray mist from the extension probe though. No matter how I played with the nozzle end and no matter whether I was using the new (thicker) waxoyl or the old (thinner) stuff I ended up with varying degrees of 'ooze'! Did you thin with waxoyl and if so how much? I definitley think a compressor is the way ahead. And you're right about using a brush on the easily accessible areas - you could probably get a perfectly good, more even coating quite well (look at how thick a coating I got behind the fuel tank!)
Taffy, its pretty easy remove the square plastic inserts. Its literally a square of plastic with a lip all around to locate it, with a plastic 'tang' on two sides. Of course from the interior you can't see which sides the tangs are located on, but using a flat blade screwdriver carefully will have it poping out. (So you've no excuse for not doing yours now  )
As for the rear compartment side cards, they didn't seem to be too secure (I could move them up and down 1/4" or so but the base was prevented from being released by the carpet glued to the wheel arch. I didn't want to pull up the carpet/covering when I figure it probably isn't necessary).
(You know what, I DID see the small hole by the fog light, and I've obviously forgotten about it straight away!!! Bugger)
Last edited on Thursday October 4th, 2007 07:07 am by Graham Bichard |
Glen Ponder
MCR Member
| Joined: | Sunday November 13th, 2005 |
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| Posts: | 851 |
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Posted: Thursday October 4th, 2007 09:41 am |
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jonathan wrote:
In my opinion, the best rust prevention is to keep out of the rain
The other big cause of rusting is of course condensation, even when you garage the car . Anyone who has opened their garage after a cold night will have noticed how the car can be covered in moisture instantly ( all inside the box sections too !) as the warmer moist air of the day invades the cold garage space, like opening a fridge door. You may even notice the tyres looking damp, and the underside can be soaking. This will remain (even under a car cover) until the temperature between the inside and outside equalises .Any attempt to heat the garage itself can make matters worse unless you're centrally heated (lucky you !) or you have an attached garage which tends to keep the temperature stable. Sealing up the garage won't help either , just accentuates the temperature differences when you open it up. A dehumidifier won't be that effective unless you're garage is airtight , see previous sentence, a draughty garage can be a good thing.
Nice clean paint which is well attached to the metal beneath is the answer, and covering that with Waxoyle ( I think Dinotrol is better actually ? ) won't really reap many benefits, but will make you feel better, will attract dust and turn a lovely shade of black.We all know these cars rot from the inside so as Graham has done wax treatment is best applied to all the body seams especially betwixt the wings/front panel, wings/scuttle, A panel seams, rear valence to boot floor and box sections,door and boot skins, sills obviously but as has been said it's better to get this done by a pro if you don't have the spraying gear as dribbling waxoyle into the sill box sections without it spraying properly is of little benefit. Once this has been done you're ready for blasting around in the rain without losing any sleep ! 
Last edited on Thursday October 4th, 2007 09:42 am by Glen Ponder |
Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Thursday October 4th, 2007 09:46 am |
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I've just realised I didn't mention about doing the doors!
I started off trying to use the drainage holes and the like, located around the perimiter of the door frame. Doing this I could see that the extension probe was not very effective so changed tack.
I used a stanley knife and cut slits in the plastic covering sheet and used the spray attachment to get a good covering inside the door, finishing by using the extension probe along the lower edge to get a good amount of waxoyl along the seam. I would suggest you don't fanny on trying to keep the slits in the plastic covering as small as possible (if yours is anything like mine there'll be small tears/rips in it anyway) but make them big enough to get a good arc with the spray nozzle.
I finished off by covering the cuts with masking tape and of course I'll use these same entry points when I do the car next time. Oh, and make sure you repeatedly clear the drainage holes - don't want to trap any moisture in the door frames/sills ON TOP OF the waxoyl!!!
Last edited on Thursday October 4th, 2007 09:55 am by Graham Bichard |
Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Thursday October 4th, 2007 09:54 am |
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Couldn't agree more with your comments Glen (especially about it making you feel better - at least youre trying to do something!!!), to the point where if you deciede to wash your car then put it in the garage, leave the door open to try and get some air moving around to extract the moisture!. And where the fun in having the car if you're not going to use it unless its dry (wouldn't have gotten much use this year then!)
As I've said before on this thread, I too have heard good things about Dinitrol but chose to use what was already in the car. Anyone want to continue this thread showing the use of that product?
And anyone got a cheap compressor going spare?
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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Monday October 8th, 2007 11:28 am |
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He He, did everyone else have a nice sunny day on Friday too? I must have had half a dozen people come up to me to tell me my car was falling apart - the heat of the sun on the passenger door (new thicker waxoyl) caused the waxoyl to drip out of the drainage holes, leaving three nice puddles/piles of gunk by the car!
Oh well, at least I know the seams at the bottom of the door/boot lid/boot/sills will have a good coating of the stuff, even if the rest doesn't!
Funnily enough, there has been nothing out of the sill on that side (must be due to the surface area/hidden position.
More surprising, the old thin waxoyl has only gently seeped from the drivers door. Unfortunately this has distorted the rubber which covers the seam below the door, so much so that it catches the door when ever you open/close it!
Anyone mention Dinitrol?
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hawaiianblue
Member
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Posted: Monday October 8th, 2007 06:13 pm |
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It does still leave a coating on all the other parts, and as you say it does 'melt' into the smaller seams.
Its only really the doors that pose a problem like this, simply because they're vertical. Basically at least it shows it's thinking like water, which is good!
I've never had it damage rubber seals though, i mean it's only wax with a white spirit carrier. Although personally i took off that horrible rubber cover from the sills and fitted nice chrome (plastic) trim like they fitted on the pre wheel arch cars, it looks nicer, it doesnt have a steel liner to rust, and when you polish your car you dont get horrible black stuff coming off it.
NB. when i fitted sill my trim i injected wax inside it to keep the water at bay.
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