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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Monday November 12th, 2007 02:29 pm |
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Right, resurrecting an old thread here!
I finally got around to measuring the suspension height at the weekend and this is what I found:
FL 21" 5/8 FR 20" 5/8
RL 23" RR 22"
All measurements are from the ground to the centre of the wheel arch (I realise that some of the figures on here are from wheel centre to wheel arch centre). The FR looks right and as I haven't had any clearence problems I'm going to use this as the start point. As I was working on the rear brakes I started adjusting them - I marked the nut/threaded shaft and adjusted the RR by half a turn, the RL by one turn. I've left them to settle down for a couple of days and remeasured them and found....no change!
So, for 1 complete turn on the rear how much should I expect the ride height to change? And is it the same on the front (I would think so - same thread pitch). Could the fact that I've used new cones on the rear mean its going to sit high for a while regardless of how much I wind the threads in (and I don't want to risk the shaft being loose longtitudinally (long word for a Monday!)).
Dave, I was going to go with the ERA settings you found but looking at the bodykit differences, the different wheel sizes/tyre ratios I think I'll try what looks right and check the geometry can be made to match. Likewise, I found it easier to measure from the floor to the centre point of the arch than the centre point of the wheel to the arch (one less variable, trying to guesstimate the wheel centre).
(Can't help thinking I'm going to deep into this!)
HB, I've just re-read your last entry - I see this is the kind of approach you've taken!
Last edited on Monday November 12th, 2007 02:33 pm by Graham Bichard |
hawaiianblue
Member
| Joined: | Saturday June 2nd, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 214 |
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Posted: Monday November 12th, 2007 08:01 pm |
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If i remember rightly the rear is on a 2:1 ratio, so if you lengthen the trumpet by 1" you'll raise the car by 2".
The front is on a 1:1 ratio i think.
Forget about the amount of turns, it'll vary from one brand of suspension to another, some older hilo's use imperial threads newer ones have metric i think.
You're far better to measure the length of the exposed thread with a ruler and wind it out to the desired length. This is also easier than marking the adjuster and trying to remember how many times you've turned it after someone has come and asked you if you want a cup of tea or what ever
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hawaiianblue
Member
| Joined: | Saturday June 2nd, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 214 |
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Posted: Monday November 12th, 2007 08:05 pm |
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| And yes if you have new cones it will sit higher. As soon as you take the weight off them they'll sit really high and then settle to a natural height after a few miles driving.
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Monday November 12th, 2007 09:55 pm |
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| Hb, ratios didn't look right so I've just consulted 'Vizard', he quotes 3:1 for the front and 5:1 for the rear. So, if your working to turns on the adjuster, you'll get about twice the movement on the rear as you get on the front, but if your measuring length it's easier to take the ratio into account. Last edited on Monday November 12th, 2007 10:00 pm by DaveShreeve |
hawaiianblue
Member
| Joined: | Saturday June 2nd, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 214 |
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Posted: Friday November 16th, 2007 05:51 pm |
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well it was after a long day at work
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Friday November 16th, 2007 08:11 pm |
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And we all have those!! It's not a great problem with adjustable cones but I remember a mate, 30 years ago when we didn't have any money, chopping 1/2 inch off each cone. His idea was a 1/2 inch reduction in ride height, the result was the original slammed mini that wouldn't move because it's arches sat on the tyres. We found it quite amusing at the time, he didn't, when it was calculated he'd attempted a 1 1/2 inch at the front, 2 1/2 inch at the rear, lowering job.
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Graham Bichard
Member
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Posted: Tuesday April 22nd, 2008 12:29 pm |
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Another update...
Set the suspension over Easter (its had PLENTY of time to settle!!!). Set the front to 20 1/2" and the rear to 21" give or take (RL just under, RR just over) and what a difference to the handling!
It immediately felt different, not like a dragster and handled sooooo much better (my 4 year old son agreed after a lap of the nearest roundabout, the wife thought the rebound action of the shocks needed fine tuning after sliding across the rear seat  ).
But the next task is: how can I check the geometry using a straight edge and string to truly optimise the handling? Anyone done this?
Cheers
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