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shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday January 4th, 2007 12:32 pm |
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Hi
my 92 spi keeps stalling until it has warmed up, it starts up first time with no problems but stalls after about a min or so unless you keep the revs up (no good when your defrosting the car or trying to warm it up in the morning) if driven from cold it stalls as soon as you stop.
when the cars warmed up the tick over is fine and there are no problems it goes like a dream.
any ideas what the problem may be.
cheers Andrew
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Thursday January 4th, 2007 01:48 pm |
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Right after doing some digging around it could be any number of things so it would be worth getting a code reader on it as it could be a fault with the temp sender or MAP sensor problems. Cutting out could be due to a faulty crank sensor too?
But when was it last serviced and treated to an oil change and air filter change and has the electrics (Spark Plugs, HT Leads, Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm) been renewed lately too?
Last edited on Thursday January 4th, 2007 05:05 pm by taffy1967 |
shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday January 4th, 2007 04:13 pm |
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i last did a oil change, new spark plugs & ht leads about 4000 miles ago. air filter was as good as new when i checked it.
Dizzy cap and arm have not been changed that i know of would this make a differance?
where can you go now adays to get a code reader on the car, or is there any why of checking codes yourself?
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Thursday January 4th, 2007 05:04 pm |
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Well if the Dizzy Cap & Rotor Arm are worn then it won't run properly, usually it just doesn't pull and feels like it's not firing on all cylinders (which is normally the case).
As for code readers, well a Rover dealer should be able to sort you out?
But i've heard that the coolant temp sensor may be reading wrong, A diagnostic check by some one who knows what they are doing is required for this.Last edited on Thursday January 4th, 2007 07:28 pm by taffy1967 |
shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday January 5th, 2007 12:41 pm |
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I will have a look at the dizzy and arm over the weekend, as i noticed this morning it did'nt pull to well, but i put this down to being damp and being left for a few days in the rain.
cheers for your help
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Friday January 5th, 2007 05:32 pm |
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It's worth replacing them and ensure your ignition shield is in place too.
Just try not to use WD40 unless it's an emergency because it will attract dirt/grime whilst it sits on your HT Leads and create even more running problems.
Plus it stinks when the engine is hot too! 
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shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 17th, 2007 01:08 pm |
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I got a code reader on the car, it came up with the following faults
Throttle potentiometer sensor
Fuel rail sensor
Alternator sensor
I put the alternator sensor down to the battery light still being on for a short time once the engine has been started. the throttle potentiometer seemed to be working ok with reading from 22% idle to 199% when the throttle is fully pressed. this leaves the fuel rail sensor which spi's do not have as such is this the other sensor.
i also have an ex mechanic looking at some autodata.
any further thoughts?
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 17th, 2007 02:53 pm |
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Well the ignition light should go out as soon as the engine fires up, so you could have a faulty alternator?
When mine started making funny noises I just took it to a local auto electricians and had new brushes fitted, plus it got a full overhaul and has worked fine ever since.
But it's worth checking the engine earth lead is good and not frayed (it's generally connected via the top engine steady arm) and also check the battery earth lead is good too.
When was your battery last changed?
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shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 17th, 2007 03:32 pm |
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The battery light only comes on when first started then goes out once reved and then only comes on again if it stalls or is about to, engine idle is very low when first started up hence my stalling problems. Earth leads are ok and there are no noises from the alternator.
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Friday January 19th, 2007 09:37 am |
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Well if there's noting wrong with the Lamda Sensor and the code reader isn't providing much help, then the only other thing that I can think of is perhaps one of the vacuum hoses needs replacing?
So check the vacuum hoses, I know on my 90'Mainstream Mini Cooper there's one running from the top of the dizzy unit to the inlet manifold, but I believe that on injection Minis there's one running from the inlet manifold to a charcoal canister hidden beneath the inner wing?
I've heard that if the vacuum hose has chafed, kinked or become loose in any way then your Mini won't run properly and that could be the cause of your problems?
The attachment on the inlet manifold is very difficult to get at unless you have small hands, but check it out all the same.Last edited on Friday January 19th, 2007 09:38 am by taffy1967 |
DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Saturday January 20th, 2007 07:27 pm |
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Taffy, carbon canister control by vacuum is only on carb with cat vehicles. Spi uses an electrically operated valve controlled by the ECU. The only vacuum run on the Spi is from the rear of the inlet manifold, via a fuel trap, to the ECU. The right angled connector at the rear of the manifold does have a tendancy to cook with heat from the exhaust causing it to crack and cause problems with vacuum readings at the ECU MAP sensor. Note: this connector can just about be seen with the air filter removed, if you want to get to it I'd definitely recommend removing the bonnet!!
If you want to try checking engine sensors I'd advise getting hold of the December 2006 copy of Mini magazine - Keith Calvers article gives useful info on values sensors should show.
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Sunday January 21st, 2007 09:28 am |
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Taffy, carbon canister control by vacuum is only on carb with cat vehicles.
Well my 90' Mainstream Mini Cooper is/was carb with cat and never had a carbon canister fitted.
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Sunday January 21st, 2007 10:07 pm |
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| Checking parts book there's no listing for charcoal filter on carb'd Cooper. Presume Cooper went Spi when filter introduced.
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 24th, 2007 08:16 pm |
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| Yes I believe so.
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shaddy
MCR Member
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Posted: Tuesday February 6th, 2007 12:33 pm |
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I finally got to the bottom of my stalling / ignition light problem. 
Stripping the old one off i found i single wire that connected to the base off the unit to what i think is a heater of some sort, which was very loose. upon fixing the connection and resetting up the unit. the car now runs fine.
thanks for all your help everyone 
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