| Author | Post |
|---|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Monday October 29th, 2007 06:00 pm |
|
Hi Guys,
IS it safe/advisable, to splice into the radio wiring for a cb install?
I am going on a run on Wednesday with the local mini club i joined and everyone uses cb's for comms and i would like to join in.
Yes you read correctly...i am taking the mini out!!! yes on a run!!! for probably over an hour!!! lol
Steve
|
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Monday October 29th, 2007 06:30 pm |
|
Well I'm no electrics expert but the standard O/E radio has it's own fuse.
So I'd assume a CB Radio is going to need a separate fuse because the standard radio loom fuse isn't going to handle 2 components at the same time.
|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Monday October 29th, 2007 10:08 pm |
|
Hi Taffy,
I realize that, but what i meant was, can i splice it before the fuse and run another fuse to the cb.
My fault i didn't explain clearly in the first place
Steve
|
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Monday October 29th, 2007 11:52 pm |
|
No worries and TBH electrics are not my strongest point. But if nobody here can help then I'd ask on The Mini Forum, because there is an "injection Mini specific" section under Technical and Help.
|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 12:11 am |
|
A chap on the mini forum suggests a splice before the fuse of tghe standard radio is acceptable, but a clean new connection to the ignition coil is preferable.
This is a silly question but cant you just take a feed from the battery terminals and be careful not to run the cb when the ignition is off?
|
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:41 am |
|
Splices before the fuse aren't a good idea. The wiring pre and post fuse is the same capacity so you could end up overloading it. If you splice after the fuse the worst you'll do is lose your radio and CB if it pops.
Ignition coil is a very strange place to take a live feed - the wiring isn't designed for the load and a direct connection to the ignition circuit isn't going to help noise on the CB.
A fused feed from the battery isn't a problem 'till you leave the CB on. Best place is either side of the ignition controlled fuse in the fuse box. The fuse should take the extra load if you use that side, or you could use an in line fuse in a lead taken from the switch side. Can't be sure off the top of my head but a white wire rings bells.
|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:28 am |
|
Thanks Dave, is that the covered fuse box
(with 4 glass fuses) or the uncovered inline ones?
The battery option sounds (and feels much easier)
I am a bit dim round auto electrics and a multimeter...but i know a battery is a battery and it powers stuff..lol
SteveLast edited on Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:32 am by special k |
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:39 am |
|
Covered fuse box.
If you're going for the battery feed easiest place to pick it up is the starter solenoid. Easy to identify - it's the thick black wire that comes in from under the car. Don't forget to include a suitable fuse.
Last edited on Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:41 am by DaveShreeve |
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:48 am |
|
Wont connecting near the solenoid cause interference?
Also, i cant see the solenoid in the manual so dont know what it looks like! is it near the coil?
Someone on another forum has suggested connecting directly to the solenoid, is that advisable?Last edited on Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:50 am by special k |
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 11:56 am |
|
| No problems connecting on the solenoid - it's where Rover take all there connections from and feed alternator into for battery charging. You'll find the solenoid piggy backed on top of the starter motor on your Spi. The connection is to a stud, about 6mm, look for the large incoming black from the battery, and numerous brown wires from the alternator and to the rest of the vehicle.
|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 12:02 pm |
|
| Brilliant! Cheers Dave
|
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 01:34 pm |
|
I don't know if this fuse guide is of any use: -
Standard 4 fuse box mounted on the bulkhead: -
1 1-2 35amp Brake Lights, Reverse Lights, Direction Indicators & Rear Screen Demister.
2 3-4 25amp Horn, Headlamp Flasher, Brake Failure Circuit & Radio Memory.
3 5-6 25amp Heater Blower Motor, Windscreen Wipers, Washer Motor & Instruments.
4 7-8 15amp Side & Tail Lights & Panel Lights.
1-2 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "II".
5-6 These circuits only operate with the ignition switch at position "I" or "II".
The "Radio Memory" isn't listed in my actual Mini Cooper (Mainstream) owners guide, but it's there on circuit 3-4 in the Haynes Mini Manual.
So I don't know which is right?
|
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:12 pm |
|
| They're the ones. Either 1-2 or 5-6 depending on exactly when you want it to work. Don't use 3-4, as stated it's the memory feed i.e. it holds the channel memory when the main power feed is off. As I remember the main power feed is from the unfused side of 5-6 with an inline fuse floating about either behind the radio or on top of the heater.
|
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:20 pm |
|
taffy1967 wrote: The "Radio Memory" isn't listed in my actual Mini Cooper (Mainstream) owners guide, but it's there on circuit 3-4 in the Haynes Mini Manual.
So I don't know which is right?
Taffy, what radio spec did RSP/Mainstream get? I'd expect even Rover to have got preset buttons and liquid crystal displays by late 80's early 90's but you never know. If not the memory feed wouldn't be required.
|
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:21 pm |
|
| My radio in-line fuse is located on the upper right hand side of the heater and the wires and in-line fuse are simply stuffed under the lower parcel shelf.
|
DaveShreeve
Administrator
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:25 pm |
|
| Either side has to be better than on top! Seems to depend how much wire they had! I've also seen the fuse tied to the brake switch wiring. Last edited on Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:26 pm by DaveShreeve |
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:29 pm |
|
DaveShreeve wrote:
taffy1967 wrote: The "Radio Memory" isn't listed in my actual Mini Cooper (Mainstream) owners guide, but it's there on circuit 3-4 in the Haynes Mini Manual.
So I don't know which is right?
Taffy, what radio spec did RSP/Mainstream get? I'd expect even Rover to have got preset buttons and liquid crystal displays by late 80's early 90's but you never know. If not the memory feed wouldn't be required.
The standard Radio/Cassette they got was the Philips R570: -
I copied that image from the RSP Cooper Register site and yes it has preset buttons and a liquid crystal display.
Shame about the liquid crystal display though, because that's the only thing that doesn't work properly on my radio/cassette.
So that memory feed is required as a result? Odd that it's not listed in the actual owners handbook. I'll have to try removing that particular fuse (3-4) to see if it makes any difference.
But I did check the actual radio in-line fuse (the one situated on top/side of the heater) and after doing that I had to reset the radio security code.Last edited on Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:30 pm by taffy1967 |
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:42 pm |
|
Right Dave/Taffy, while i had it fresh in my head, i had a walk home at lunchtime, to eyeball the starter solenoid.
As you described it dave, it is piggybacked and slightly leans to the front grill. I could see the thick black "live" curling up from underneath and up to the starter and attached by a big nut, is this the one i can connect the wire to?
Then just select a suitable chassis earth.
Should i disconnect the battery earth lead at the battery before doing this and just the earth lead, not both.
I suppose removing just the earth still keeps the regular radio memory.
Steve
|
special k
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:46 pm |
|
The standard Radio/Cassette they got was the Philips R570: -
I copied that image from the RSP Cooper Register site and yes it has preset buttons and a liquid crystal display.
Shame about the liquid crystal display though, because that's the only thing that doesn't work properly on my radio/cassette.
So that memory feed is required as a result? Odd that it's not listed in the actual owners handbook. I'll have to try removing that particular fuse (3-4) to see if it makes any difference.
But I did check the actual radio in-line fuse (the one situated on top/side of the heater) and after doing that I had to reset the radio security code.
Yup!...Thats exactly the same as mine
|
taffy1967
Member
|
Posted: Tuesday October 30th, 2007 02:51 pm |
|
special k wrote:
Right Dave/Taffy, while i had it fresh in my head, i had a walk home at lunchtime, to eyeball the starter solenoid.
As you described it dave, it is piggybacked and slightly leans to the front grill. I could see the thick black "live" curling up from underneath and up to the starter and attached by a big nut, is this the one i can connect the wire to?
Then just select a suitable chassis earth.
Should i disconnect the battery earth lead at the battery before doing this and just the earth lead, not both.
I suppose removing just the earth still keeps the regular radio memory.
Steve
Yes disconnecting the earth lead isolates the battery and it will also knock out the radio memory too.
|
Current time is 02:50 am | Page: 1 2   |
|
