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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Monday December 3rd, 2007 08:33 am |
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Air circulation
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onespeed
Member
| Joined: | Thursday November 15th, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 3 |
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Posted: Monday December 3rd, 2007 08:35 am |
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| think uou need to insulate the walls too,I had the same problem and insulating the walls and roof got rid of condensation.I see thr problem with ventilation is tha you're letting warm,moist air in
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Monday December 3rd, 2007 08:59 am |
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onespeed wrote: think uou need to insulate the walls too,I had the same problem and insulating the walls and roof got rid of condensation.I see thr problem with ventilation is tha you're letting warm,moist air in
Thats my next plan if the roof wasnt sufficent (cost a bloody fortune though)!
THB the vents have helped! When the sun comes out after a cold night it beams down on the garage and the air temp inside raises faster than the surface of the mini.
Here's some pics. (you can see what remains of the floor paint (I didnt seal the concreate and it just pealed up after a week of two)!
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medwaybeat
Member
| Joined: | Sunday April 9th, 2006 |
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| Posts: | 5 |
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Posted: Monday December 3rd, 2007 12:08 pm |
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These don't look bad value and can be dried and re used.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9456&frostProductName=Air%20Dry%20%20%20%20%20%20&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID=
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Monday December 3rd, 2007 07:55 pm |
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medwaybeat wrote: These don't look bad value and can be dried and re used.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9456&frostProductName=Air%20Dry%20%20%20%20%20%20&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID=
Don't think they'll do a lot for the garage but they're great if you want to keep the interior dry. I've used similar units in a car left outside, they reduced internal condensation to nil. The only problem occurs if doors are opened on a regular basis - quoted life is seriously reduced. This doesn't cause major problems unless you 'fit and forget'; if you keep an eye on them they're easily revitalised for reuse. I'd definitely recommend for inside the vehicle.
Last edited on Monday December 3rd, 2007 07:56 pm by DaveShreeve |
onespeed
Member
| Joined: | Thursday November 15th, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 3 |
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Posted: Tuesday December 4th, 2007 06:19 am |
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Insulate the walls with fibreglass cavity batts and then line out with 4mm ply(if you line with 13mm ply you can fix shelves to) or use polystyrene insulation,but you want to find some same thickness as the uprights or you'll spend ages packing out the uprights.
Cost about £300 to insulate(poly) and line(4mm) my 6*3m garage
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rcm397
Member
| Joined: | Thursday August 30th, 2007 |
| Location: | Lancashire |
| Posts: | 38 |
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Posted: Tuesday December 4th, 2007 06:46 am |
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onespeed wrote: Insulate the walls with fibreglass cavity batts ...or use polystyrene insulation.....
Should you use polystyrene batts, make sure you protect any PVC-sheathed electric cables beforehand with plastic trunking or similar.
If polystyrene is allowed to come in contact with electric cable it can cause the sheathing to break-down.
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Friday December 14th, 2007 07:56 pm |
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quick update....
With the recent below freezing temps here's how things are going...
The foam insulation has considerably reduced condensation on the car and other metal objects (tins, paints etc). however there is still some condensationn that drips through inbetween the foam boards and the timber framing. I think to resolve this it will be a simple job of sealing the gaps with sealent & expanding foam (suppose I just need to stop the warm air coming in contact with the cold roof).
I may look into the 12volt fan as I have a spare battery and a good charger. (can anyone recomend one)?
Craig.
Last edited on Friday December 14th, 2007 08:04 pm by sefton |
rcm397
Member
| Joined: | Thursday August 30th, 2007 |
| Location: | Lancashire |
| Posts: | 38 |
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Posted: Saturday December 15th, 2007 05:03 am |
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sefton wrote: ....I may look into the 12volt fan as I have a spare battery and a good charger. (can anyone recomend one)?
Craig.
You don't necessarily need a power supply to ventilate the building. Depending on its form of construction, and proximity of adjacent buildings, it 'might' be possible to use some Flettner ventilators - http://www.flettner.co.uk/home.htm
These are wind powered vents and can be very effective. Originally designed for vehicles, they are now used for a variety of applications...including buildings.
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Saturday December 15th, 2007 07:10 am |
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They sound great, but I have a corragated roof so I'm not sure they would fit.
Thanks!
Last edited on Saturday December 15th, 2007 07:10 am by sefton |
rcm397
Member
| Joined: | Thursday August 30th, 2007 |
| Location: | Lancashire |
| Posts: | 38 |
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Posted: Saturday December 15th, 2007 09:40 am |
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sefton wrote: They sound great, but I have a corragated roof so I'm not sure they would fit.
Thanks!
It depends on which profiled sheeting you've got but that's not necessarily a problem.
Most sheeting manufacturers provide 'reverse profile' filler pieces - typically used for closing the eaves. This could provide a level fixing base for the fan whilst maintaining a weathertight joint.
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Saturday December 15th, 2007 05:18 pm |
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Cheers mate!
I've also seen solar powerd vents, maybe a small solar panel connected to a fan might work aswell.
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Itsarek
Member
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Posted: Saturday December 15th, 2007 05:39 pm |
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sefton wrote: Cheers mate!
I've also seen solar powerd vents, maybe a small solar panel connected to a fan might work aswell.
Hi ! 
You can get them for boats (quite expensive), but you have always got ebay! 
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Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Sunday December 16th, 2007 08:49 am |
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I have a corrugated roof
What is the roof made from? That is more likely to be the source of your problem.
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minorparts
Member
| Joined: | Friday March 23rd, 2007 |
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| Posts: | 862 |
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Posted: Sunday December 16th, 2007 09:48 am |
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I agree. I used to have a completely wooden garage where we lived before and NEVER had any problem with condensation.
When we moved here we had a brick garage with a corrugated asbestos roof. TERRIBLE condensation. Quickly replaced the roof with wood and felt, which cured the problem over night! I did think of insulating it too but have never got around to it in the 25years since but have NEVER had any condensation at all. It is also true that a fairly recent concrete base will take a long time to fully 'dry' but corrugated asbestos OR metal are pretty dreadful materials for roofing....
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Sunday December 16th, 2007 01:17 pm |
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The roof is made from a corrugated fibre (aparently bichemen).
dont fancy replacing the roof lol
it only seems to be a problem when temps drop below freezing so the majority of the time it should be fine.
I installed a vent at the highest point in the garage wall yesterday (untill then all the vents are just above ground level)...so I think this will also help to draw the warm moist air out.
Thanks for all the advice!
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Saturday December 22nd, 2007 12:55 pm |
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Arrgghhhh!
Bloody dripping like mad now the cold weather is passing (the condensation is still forming underneath the foam and then dripping from between the joins.
The roof material is defo the problem (I thought by insulating it the moist air wouldnt come into contact with it...but it obviously still does).
So I'm thinking a fan now...but would this cure it? or would the moist air still come into contact with the roof & condensaite?
I think the best thing is going to replace the roof with a woodern one in spring! (wife gonna kill me)!
I've also thought about fixing some plywood upthere (but I'm thinking the moist air will still find it's way to the roof)??
The middle part of the roof is now insulated aswell.
Last edited on Saturday December 22nd, 2007 12:56 pm by sefton |
Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Saturday December 22nd, 2007 04:24 pm |
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You could replace the roof but a cheaper option might be to double skin it making sure there is a layer of insulation between the two sheets.
Alternatively if you had the work done it might be worth speaking to your builder/roofer - if he knew it was a garage roof he shouldn't have put a single layer roof on it.
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sefton
Member
| Joined: | Friday April 27th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 165 |
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Posted: Saturday December 22nd, 2007 06:50 pm |
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bought the garage from a timber garage supplier in yorkshire. It came semi assembled & the work men just fixed it togeather. there was an option for a wooden skin under the bitchemen (but obviously it cost more money..& I thought the bitchemen roof would be OK).
dont think it will cost too much to reroof & felt it.
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mj66
MCR Member
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Posted: Saturday December 22nd, 2007 07:14 pm |
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Hi Sefton
we had a similar problem with are bathroom being a single skin walls(old house)condensation was bad the walls would drip so i used moisture check board which is available from your local builders yard then i taped the joints it done the trick very warm no condensation.
hope this helps.
cheers.
mark
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