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Mattd
Member
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Posted: Thursday January 24th, 2008 10:44 am |
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Hi can anyone suggest a rough sequence of rebuild, just to help prevent disasters?
Cheers
Matt
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Mattd
Member
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Posted: Thursday January 24th, 2008 03:08 pm |
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Had some thoughts and these are my notes? Can anyone see a glaring mistake?
Wiring loom
Battery cable
Fuel Line
Brake lines
Install pedal box/master cylinders
Steering rack/column
Install made up rear sub frame (Padding between car and sub frame?)
Install handbrake assembly
Install petrol tanks
Connect wiring
Install front sub frame with engine assembly
Install ancillaries
Connect wiring up
Connect fuel and water
Connect heater and choke cables
Speedo drive
Gear change linkage
Windscreen wipers/washers
Exhaust system
Boot lid
Boot lid seal how to fit
Number plate board/light
Bonnet
Stay
Lock assembly
Doors
Tips on door hanging
Run through door window installation
Door handles/ lock
Interior
Installing lower dash rail tips?
Upper dash rail vinyl tips?
Install heater/pipes/etc
Switch panel
Seats/carpet/headlining/etc
Seat belts
Exterior bright work
Bumpers/over-riders
Headlights/tail lights
Windscreens/quarter-light windows
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PTN11F
Member
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Posted: Thursday January 24th, 2008 03:22 pm |
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You seem to be at the same stage as me - shell all done, sitting on a bogey waiting to be fitted up.
Your list seems about right to me - I have got the brake and fuel lines and hydro pipes on, and my built up rear sub waiting to fit, but I was going to leave the wiring loom til a later stage.
Like you, I could do with some tips on door hanging, dash rail fitting etc. Anyone else got any suggestions?
Alan
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday January 24th, 2008 05:51 pm |
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Hi Matt,
Pretty good listing but you here's a few comments - all constructive 
The rear lights also have to be fitted before fitting the tanks.
I fit my subframes up bare (much easier to handle) and then assemble the radius arms onto it followed by the backplates/brakes etc. I do the same with front subframe and then use a spring compressor with a rubber mat to protect the crossmember paint to get the top arms etc in.
I do use a Mini-Machine style spit-roller though for my restorations. Fitting the subframes etc with the car on its side is much easier than grovelling underneath. Just have to be careful with the extra weight when swinging the car upright. I take the car out of the spit as soon as it's able to sit on it's wheels
Connect the speedo drive to the gearbox before you put the engine/box in - much easier.
The remote gear linkage can go in as soon as the engine/box is fitted. The gear lever can be removed whilst fitting the inside out as it gets in the way.
Fitting the dash vynyl takes time and patience. If fitting new vynyl it helps to cut the material to the rough shape using the old one as a template.
Fit the headlining first before doing anything else inside.
Hope this helps. I'm sure we all have our own tried and tested methods of fitting a car up.
Andrew
Last edited on Thursday January 24th, 2008 06:14 pm by Andrew1967 |
Mattd
Member
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Posted: Friday January 25th, 2008 08:30 am |
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Andrew
Now that's more like it, thanks for the great advice. All has been noted and will be posted on the wall of the workshop so things don't get forgotten!
Any more tips and trick gratefully received
Regards
Matt
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mk1coopers
MCR Member
| Joined: | Wednesday September 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 147 |
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Posted: Friday January 25th, 2008 05:07 pm |
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Mattd wrote:
Any more tips and trick gratefully received
Don't fit the heater box before you fit the pins to the bottom of the Master cylinders, and use 'R' clips rather than split pins to lock them 
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