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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Thursday December 27th, 2007 02:06 pm |
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| HI AGAIN HOPE YOU ALL HAD A GOOD CHRISTMAS , NOW I NEED SOME HELP . I HAVE JUST PUT MY REBUILT ENGINE /BOX BACK IN (REBULT NOT MY ME BY A MINI COMPANY) BUT I HAVE NO CLUTCH IT WILL NOT CLEAR THE GEARS WHEN RUNNING I HAVE DONE ALL THE ADJUSTMENTS TO THE BOOK AND MY OWN TRYING TO CLEAR THE GEARS BUT STILL NO GOOD , ALL THE PARTS A BRAND NEW MASTER ,SLAVE ,PIPE WORK ,SPRING, ARM AND CLUCH IT SELF AND BLEED IT NUMBER OF TIMES AND WAYS . CAN ANYONE HELP, SHOULD I GO OFF THE ADJUSTMENTS IN THE BOOK THANKS IAN
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday December 27th, 2007 08:28 pm |
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Hi Ian,
Have you also replaced the shaft that takes the thrust bearing as these wear badly as well?
I used to have big problems with the clutch clearance (or total lack of it) on my Mk2 Cooper. I replaced ALL the components with new parts but still could not get any clearance. The only way I could get clearance was to fit an extended pushrod between the arm and slave cylinder. After that the clutch worked but was heavy and not really very good and never felt as though it was operating properly.
When I converted the car back to Hydro suspension I took the opportunity to check the clutch out. The only parts I changed was the blue coded clutch diaphragm to a standard green coded one and also the thrust bearing. The bearing fitted was the later type that floats on the shaft and is held in place with a clip. I found a NOS original type thrust bearing that is a press fit onto the shaft and used that.
I also replaced the extended push rod with a standard length one and the clutch is now perfect.
Not really sure what I did to cure it but as I only really replaced the thrust and diaphragm can only assume it was one or both of them at fault.
I would certainly go by the factory/manual method of adjusting the clutch arm and make sure that the hydraulics are operating correctly as soon as the pedal is started to be depressed.
Hope this is of some help
Andrew
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Thursday December 27th, 2007 10:03 pm |
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| HI ANDY , THANKS FOR THE INFO , SO ITS LOOKS LIKE TRIAL AND ERROR . WILL HAVE A LOOK AT IT TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW THANKS AGAIN THANKS IAN
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 05:52 pm |
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| HI ANDY , HAD A LOOK TODAY AND CHECKED ALL THE PARTS I HAVE NOT CHANGED LIKE THE FIXING PIN ON THE PEDAL THAT IS WORN AND ALSO IF I BEND THE ARM CLOSER TO THE SLAVE AND MAKE THE PUSH ROD LONGER THE PEDAL IS A LOT BETTER AND CLEARS THE GEARS BUT IS THIS THE RIGHT WAY TO GO WHAT DO YOU RECOMEND NOW ??
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 07:49 pm |
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Hi Ian,
I would say that you should replace all the clevis pins in the system, the one on the pedal and the two that are on the top and bottom of the clutch arm.
Have you replaced the cross-shaft that the arm fits into and that the thrust fits onto?
As I mentioned, these wear badly where the ball of the arm moves against and a little wear equates to quite a lot of lost clutch travel. If you haven't replaced the arm with a new one and the ball on the end has worn flat one one side, it's possible to build the ball up with weld and file it round again. New arms are relatively cheap though.
Don't bend the clutch arm! It's a common bodge to get over clutch clearance problems. Although it gets over the problem it doesn't actually cure it.
Andrew
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 08:02 pm |
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| HI ANDY , SO YOU WOULD SAY I NEED TO REPLACE THE SHAFT FOR THE BEARING AS WELL OR DO YOU THINK I CAN GET AWAY WITH THE PINS AND A NEW ARM BECAUSE THIS IS THE EASY ITEMS TO REPLACE AS YOU KNOW THANKS FOR YOUR HELP IAN
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 08:25 pm |
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Hi Ian,
I'd certainly give the new pins and arm a go before replacing the shaft. Getting rid of as much wear as you can will help and you could be lucky and get away with leaving the shaft untouched.
On Mini's we've had in the past with clutch clearance problems (especially reverse) we have found the ball on the arm to be worn flat on the thrust side. We have welded up many arms and have cured the problem.
A new arm will be the best way to go of course. If you see a bent clutch arm all the problem normally is is the worn ball.
Taking the clutch cover off in situ is not the best of jobs but it is possible if all else fails.
Try the easier options first though. If you replace the shaft and leave the other bits worn you may still have problems.
Andrew
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 08:39 pm |
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| OK MATE I WILL GIVE IT A GO AND I WILL LET YOU KNOW THANKS IAN
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday December 28th, 2007 08:41 pm |
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Good luck - I know what you are going through! 
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miniflynnie
Member
| Joined: | Monday May 29th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 4 |
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Posted: Saturday December 29th, 2007 03:43 pm |
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stg.
To extend the clutch arm - use an oil relief valve on the end of the rod, you can always space it further with a nut inside the valve.
miniflynnie
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Saturday December 29th, 2007 03:59 pm |
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| OK THANKS
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Itsarek
Member
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Posted: Saturday December 29th, 2007 04:10 pm |
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miniflynnie wrote: stg.
To extend the clutch arm - use an oil relief valve on the end of the rod, you can always space it further with a nut inside the valve.
miniflynnie
Hi
I would respectfully suggest that North Atlantic Repairs are OK to get you home but not for a permanent fix! 
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Sunday December 30th, 2007 09:35 pm |
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| Any luck with the clutch Ian?
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Gray
MCR Member
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Posted: Sunday December 30th, 2007 10:04 pm |
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| You may want to check this forum thread, http://p075.ezboard.com/fspecialistminiforumsfrm8.showMessage?topicID=3148.topic Gray
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Sunday December 30th, 2007 10:06 pm |
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| HI ANDY , NO NOT AT THE MOMMENT AS MINI SPARES ARE CLOSED UNTILL THE NEW YEAR ,THATS WERE I WILL GET THE PARTS FROM , BUT I SOON AS I GET THEM I WILL LET YOU KNOW HAVE A GOOD NEW YEAR THANKS IAN
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Sunday December 30th, 2007 10:13 pm |
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OK Ian, and have a good New Year yourself
Gray, I read that thread and that didn't apply to my Cooper. No sloppiness in my crankshaft, thank goodness 
Andrew
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STG95F
Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 2nd, 2008 02:48 pm |
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| HI ANDREW , LOOK AT MY CLUTCH TODAY . I CHANGED PLUNGER , ARM ,ALL THE PINS BEARING BUT I STILL HAD TO MAKE THE SLAVE ROD LONGER !!! TO GET IT TO CLEAR THE GEARS , SO I DO NOT KNOW WHAT NOW ?? THANKS IAN
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 2nd, 2008 05:09 pm |
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Hmm...you seem to have the same problem as I had as mentioned in my first reply to you.
As mentioned previously the only thing I altered when I had the engine out was to replace the blue spot diaphragm with a green spot one, change the thrust bearing for the correct, pressed on type and replaced lengthened clutch arm pushrod with a standard length one.
My own opinion is that the thrust bearing I had fitted previously which was the type retained by a clip was not wide enough and so resulted in a reduced travel?
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28121912
Member
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Posted: Wednesday January 2nd, 2008 07:35 pm |
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Firstly check where the plunger is on the slave on the bell housing .
- remove the rubber boot so you can see it.
- get someone to depress the clutch pedal so you can see where the piston is in the bore of the slave when you have fully stroked the master cylinder.
- if the piston is hitting the circlip at the end of the slave then this is effectively reducing the amount of disengagement of the clutch.
- If the above is happening then you need to lengthen pushrod to give you more effective stroke.
Let me know what you find
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