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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Monday May 28th, 2007 06:38 pm |
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dgear1984 wrote: Does anyone know of anyone who sells / reconditions / exchanges hydro units?? I have had a look around and its the one thing i have not really seen.
Also does anyone have any dimentions of where the boot board brackets go and any dimentions of the boot board.
How does the oil cooler attach onto a mk1 s? Is there brackets coming off the subrame or is there brackets welded onto the front panel?
The bracket that is attached to the rear seats for the lh tank. is the rectangular bracket the studs attached to welded to the rear seat or are they just pushed through.
A1: See this thread: http://mcr.mywowbb.com/forum30/955.html
A2: Is the board for single or twin tanks? Bracket positions are as follows (measurements might not be 100% accuracte): Center of left boot hinge - 45mm - center of left bracket, which is positioned to the right of the left boot hinge - 527mm - center of center bracket - 237mm - center of right bracket, which is located 30mm to the left of the center of the right boot hinge. Hope this is somewhat clear...
A3: Do you mean a standard post April '66 oil cooler or the pre April '66 optional one?
A4: The LH tank bracket is welded to the rear seat back. For a RH tank, you have a bracket that is bolted to two brackets, which each have two bolts without head welded to them that go through the seat back - see the picture on page 113 in John Parnell's book.
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618AOG
Member
| Joined: | Tuesday March 14th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 182 |
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Posted: Monday May 28th, 2007 06:54 pm |
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dgear1984 wrote:
Does anyone know of anyone who sells / reconditions / exchanges hydro units?? I have had a look around and its the one thing i have not really seen.
I don't think so although you may find some new old stock units at vast expense. But at the risk of wrath from the purists, Hydrolastic is one of those things best avoided now as the units are so old. Okay on an existing car but on a full rebuild it's worth converting to dry. It won't affect the value of the car much and you know it's not going to explode in a sea of green fluid. You can use the existing hydro front subframe as I did on my 970S - just chisel out the displacer retaining ring and the rubber cone sits in okay - but you'll find the ride height is lower at the front as the top towers are different. If you use brand new cones (or Hilos) though that won't be a problem.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday May 28th, 2007 07:37 pm |
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Twin tanks. are the brackets same for single and twin? Think that makes sense brain not working very well. Does anyone have any positions for the ones on the rear seat aswell or is that a case of make the board level?
I also ment rh. I will learn my left and right one day?? maybe?? I can see the 2 stud bracket in the book was not sure if it was just pushed in or welded.
a post 66 car for the cooler. I am trying to build a 67 s replica. Does anyone have any good pics of the cooler i cant seem to find any high detail pics.
Doesnt seem that hopeful for the hydro. Would others recomend converting to dry now?? As you can imagine they are rusty (although seemed to work fine when i picked up the car) I know there is lots of differnt types of hydro units. The colour codes have long gone but there is some numbers near where the hose enters the unit. Are these identifying numbers?
I have also attached a picture. Does anyone have the dimentions to hand of the distances marked in red.
I will be going to beaulieu so will be looking very carefully at the mk1 s's there.
Thank you so much for everyones help.
Attachment: Untitled-Scanned-02.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Saturday June 2nd, 2007 08:19 pm |
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Position of the boot board brackets is the same for single and twin tanks. For the two other brackets on the seat back, maybe some of the pictures I posted in the 'to reshell or not to reshell' thread can be of help, see http://mcr.mywowbb.com/forum30/1055.html For a 67 S, all the boot board brackets would be welded as well as the LH & RH tank stands.
The number on the hydro units you mention is probably 21A1477, which they all have as far as I know. Only the very first standard type really had that number as their part number while other types of the hydro units actually had a different number but that was not changed for the rubber moulding. It might however be the case that there are part numbers stamped in the iron casing.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Friday June 15th, 2007 10:05 pm |
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Has anyone managed to get any good pictures of the oil cooler mounting and the diagnal strut?
Is this the type of remote used on a 67 s? if not does anyone have a picture of one that is.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280124128624&rd=1&rd=1
Is this a mk1 s air box? if no what are the signs to look for.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180128985330&rd=1&rd=1
How have people braced the car when they have changed a floor pan. I cant seem to decide the best way of bracing the car.
Am i correct in thinking the hydro units on s are the same a other minis and the harder hydro units where only an option/for racing and rallying use?
Thanks
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Friday June 15th, 2007 10:26 pm |
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dgear1984 wrote: 1) Is this the type of remote used on a 67 s? if not does anyone have a picture of one that is.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=018&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=280124128624&rd=1&rd=1
2) Is this a mk1 s air box? if no what are the signs to look for.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180128985330&rd=1&rd=1
3) Am i correct in thinking the hydro units on s are the same a other minis and the harder hydro units where only an option/for racing and rallying use?
1) NO, this is a rod change type as used on any post 73 Mini
2) Yes, and it is still in one piece (i.e. the pipe has not been cut)
3) Have a look at this thread http://mcr.mywowbb.com/forum30/1135.html
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Glen Ponder
MCR Member
| Joined: | Sunday November 13th, 2005 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 695 |
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Posted: Friday June 15th, 2007 10:34 pm |
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That remote is actually a rod change  , looks nothing like a remote. The rod change came in after Mini Coopers had gone out of production.The remote gearchange houses the 'rod' within a cast ali casing, sorry don't have a pic.
The air filter box looks fine for mk1/2
S hydro units were certainly different from standard , but uprated versions of the S ones themselves were available as you suggest.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 12:47 pm |
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Finished making my 3g0deg spit 2day and started bracing the inside of the car prior to removing the boot floor and main floor.
The whole thing only cost me £42 to make, alot cheeper than the m-machine one a £200. The m-machine may be better made/designed but mine seems to do the job.
Attachment: 15-06-07_1713.jpg (Downloaded 19 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 12:49 pm |
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that is suppost to be 360deg.
pic 2
Attachment: 20-06-07_1343.jpg (Downloaded 181 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 12:50 pm |
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| pic 3 Attachment: 20-06-07_1344.jpg (Downloaded 179 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 12:57 pm |
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how the old girl arrived at mine before meeting my spanners!
Not bad for FOC thanks to a mcr reader. Thanks
Started life as an auto changed to a manual 1000 (so im told not sure which engine it really has though) and hopefully will end up as a cooper s replica (i hope, fingers crossed)
Attachment: 2.bmp (Downloaded 176 times)
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 12:58 pm |
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dgear1984 wrote: Finished making my 3g0deg spit 2day and started bracing the inside of the car prior to removing the boot floor and main floor.
Why would you remove the main floor? It doesn't look too bad from those pictures...
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 05:00 pm |
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Yes, it looks pretty good to me as well 
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fyp741c
Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 141 |
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 07:09 pm |
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maybe something to do with the autobox
but yes it looks pretty sound, my shell's floor is a right pigs breakfast in comparison
and the spit looks 100%
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fyp741c
Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 141 |
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Posted: Thursday June 21st, 2007 07:09 pm |
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maybe something to do with the autobox
but yes it looks pretty sound, my shell's floor is a right pigs breakfast in comparison
and the spit looks 100%
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday June 25th, 2007 04:29 pm |
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As far as i can see the auto floor is the same just had a couple of extra holes which would be cut out if the remote was there for a cooper s.
The inner and outer sills need doing, the front def needs doing cos i can put my finger through it and the rear subframe mount has been patched badly so that would need doing. The rear of the floor is abit ropey as hopefully you can see in the pics ill post so i though it would be best to do the whole lot but you guys know more than me so any advice is good avice.
Please add your comments.
ps when i post a picture how come some are auto shown and some you have to download? what do i do differnt but not knowingly???
Attachment: 24-06-07_1556.jpg (Downloaded 134 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday June 25th, 2007 04:32 pm |
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| and the other side Attachment: 24-06-07_1557.jpg (Downloaded 132 times)
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday June 25th, 2007 04:41 pm |
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That looks a whole lot better than the floor in my replica before I repaired it.
Prior to starting work I'd get the floor, if not the whole car, stripped back to bare metal to see what is good and what is not. I had my shell sandblasted by someone who was very kind to the shell and did not distort any panelwork (unlike some horror stories you read). Only part I did not get done was the roof but I did get the guttering blasted. This way I knew exactly what as good and what needed repair/replacement.
There are various different methods of stripping the paint off, all seem to have advantages and disadvantages and can be relatively cheap to expensive.
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Monday June 25th, 2007 05:10 pm |
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Yes, it also looks way better than the floor of my Mk II Cooper when I started. You at least have a floor  It actually looks quite the same as my 1975 Mini that I need to get through the MOT for just one more year to have at least one running car 
I think you could maybe replace the inner sills untill the first gutter if not less. For the LH side (second picture) that might be sufficient. For the RH side you will probably need a bit more at the rear corner. It definately shows there that some patching was done since then things usually rust quicker. I would repair the seat pan by means of patch that is almost as big as the rising 'triangle' in the corner so that the welding is very near to the bend edge - with 'patch' I mean first removing the old piece and then welding the patch panel against the hard edges of the cut (not on top of them). I guess you will also need to repair the corners of the panel where the rear subframe bolts to (you can buy repair panels for that) and maybe the stiffners for the sills in the bins and probably the small plates to the inner rear wings. I would however try to save the bins if possible. All depends of course on the condition of these panels and how well you can reach the locations that need repair...
Can't help with the picture problem: I have the same experience...
Last edited on Monday June 25th, 2007 05:42 pm by Mini4Ever |
dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Tuesday June 26th, 2007 08:32 pm |
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I have really started to rethink the whole floor removal. Think i will try to leave the tunnel in now. Thought the floor would be alot stronger if i replaced it all rather than replacing several parts but having a re think now.
Does anyone have the dimensions for the cut out for the remote change and where it is positioned. Is there any other brackets welded under the floor for the remote change. I know there is a bracket bolted to the floor near the cross member. Does anyone have the dimension for these holes?
Does anyone have the positions for the boot brackets that mount to the rear sear back panel?
Where abouts are the brackets positioned for the twin tank fuel line? What size are the brackets/tags etc. I am gona need to make a spot weld these brackets in while the boot floor is out.
Has anyone managed to get and oil cooler mounting pics/ mesurements for me yet??
thanks dave
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