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Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 04:28 pm |
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12H is only the correct prefix for a Mk 3 Cooper S engine, Mk 1 & 2 S engine numbers start 9F.
Just because it starts 12H doesn't mean it is a Mk 3 S engine, its the next bit of the code (three numbers) that is important.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:39 pm |
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| pic1 Attachment: coopers001a.jpg (Downloaded 71 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:49 pm |
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| pic2 Attachment: coopers002a.jpg (Downloaded 54 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:49 pm |
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| pic3 Attachment: coopers003a.jpg (Downloaded 55 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:50 pm |
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| pic4 Attachment: coopers005a.jpg (Downloaded 246 times)
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:50 pm |
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| pic5 Attachment: coopers007a.jpg (Downloaded 47 times)
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Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:52 pm |
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| That is not a Cooper S block and judging by the radiator it has come straight out of a 1300 range car of some sort.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 06:52 pm |
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| pic6 Attachment: coopers008a.jpg (Downloaded 48 times)
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 08:49 pm |
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Looks to me like it has the front plate for an in-line A series engine (Midget etc) or did the 11/1300 range also have this plate?
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 09:44 pm |
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| Larger subframe allowed 1100/1300 range to use a 3 point mounting system. Front plate used was from Minor 1000 so probably also appeared in Austin A30, A35, A40, and Sprites and Midgets.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday May 7th, 2007 08:59 pm |
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I am going to need to change the floor pan in my mini and am in the process of making a spit jig to roll the car over.
I have found from mini spares a Front and rear assembly for Rod change gear lever cars 1973 on less the crossmemeber. this floor is the latest shape ever made wich is stronger and has a gusset section down the L/H side to carry extra fuel lines .
Will this fit a mk1? I can't seem to find a floor pan for a mk1. Is this just a case of the gear change is in a differnt place.
I am also trying to find some outer sills. They all seem to have the 6 vents rather than 4 vents for a mk1. Are 4 vent items avalible?
thanks dave
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday May 7th, 2007 09:10 pm |
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Hi Dave,
M-Machine do the full floor panels for Mk1's and also the 4 vent sills.
http://www.m-machine.co.uk/
Andrew
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 8th, 2007 08:00 pm |
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I have noticed that on ebay the price for the cooper s style binnacles vary alot in price for what seems to be the same conditon. I know 130 speedos go for alot but these are striped just the black plastic binnacle. Is there differnt types or just some people getting caried away?
M-machine do some nice panels. Does anyone know if they are pattern or genuine?
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 8th, 2007 08:09 pm |
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| Floor & sills panels (except top sills) are made in house. They are very good panels and fit very well. I had no problems when fitting seperate floor sections to my shell. I fitted full front floorwells and rear wells up to the 1st flute. I'd certainly recommend their floor panel work. The top sills and A-panels are pattern panels. They were honest with me and told me which panels they make and which they buy in.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 8th, 2007 08:28 pm |
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I am considering replacing the complete floor pan asembly rather than patching the origional floor.
What are peoples opinion on this??
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 8th, 2007 08:47 pm |
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Big job! Depends on how bad your original floors/tunnel are, I suppose.
The tunnel and 2/3rds of the rear floor being perfect did not warrant a full floor in my shell
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 461 |
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Posted: Saturday May 12th, 2007 04:57 pm |
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Story I:
I also replaced (almost) the complete floor (including cross members and complete boot floor), all the sills and the complete front (including the complete toe board, front cross member, front window frame and even part of the dash panels) of my 1967 Mk II Cooper up to about 20 to 25 cm from the lowest point of the car up and all around. It was really a very very big job and you should be confident about how you plan to do this: if you cut away too much you will not easily get a straight car again. I had not even the mounting points for the rear subframe anywhere near where they should be, which made alignment rather difficult.
I had decided to keep the tunnel (to ensure that the gear level hole was kept original and to have something to start aligning from) but in the end it would have been better to remove the tunnel as well (the panel was very thin due to the rust and therefore virtually impossible to weld onto). By replacing only one half of the floor at a time, I was able to somehow keep the body strong enough to not collapse completely (I never used any temporal strengthening beams of any kind, but it might be wiser to do so...).
I started with first replacing the complete rear subframe mounting panel in a way that it was properly centered and attached to only the original tunnel (there was not much of the rear seat pan left to weld onto here). I used M(ini)-Machine floor pannels, which were actually about 6mm too short, while the new door steps where too long. Nevertheless, after some hard labour of pushing/pulling etc, it now looks really nice and original again thanks to the M(ini)-Machine panels. I used small bolts and nuts to put the panels in place to ensure proper placement before welding (as well as to bridge the 6mm gap). I also used the mounting holes for the front subframe as the reference starting point to get everything ok again.
If I would do this again (which is very likely necessary for my dad's 1963 Mini even though this Mini is in much better shape than mine was), I would probably make something that fixes the two subframes in the correct position to the garage floor while being bolted to a straight car. Then remove the body of that car and put the body that is to be repaired onto the two fixed frames. In this way, you are at least certain that the two subframes are properly aligned.
(Analog) Pictures of the whole operation on my car are available and I will take them to Beaulieu. So, if you are interested, I can tell this story then in more detail.
Story II:
A friend of me replaced the complete floor with tunnel etc on his 1966 Cooper S. He used this complete floor from M(ini)-machine with the outer sills attached. This was done by a professional restoration company and they put it in as one whole (don't ask me how but I guess from below). Unfortunately, the bottom sills are not aligned perfectly now, which was due to them being already fixed to the floor. I would really recommend to put on the outer sills only after welding in the floor as you can then still properly ajust the alignment at the back.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday May 13th, 2007 08:37 pm |
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I have already started to make a spit to turn the car over.
I have started to strip my subrames down. I was going to check the subframes are staright and bolt them into the car and check the mounts fit correctly and the shell is not twisted. I was going to then make a jig to connect the two subframes together so once i cut out the floor i can insert the new floor and check the mounts are in the corret place before welding. I also have planned to brace the car from inside to help prevent the cat twisting or flexing where it is not wanted.
Thanks for your input. Hopefully will be at b, will be trying to get as much advice in the time allowed.
dave
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday May 13th, 2007 08:37 pm |
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I have already started to make a spit to turn the car over.
I have started to strip my subrames down. I was going to check the subframes are staright and bolt them into the car and check the mounts fit correctly and the shell is not twisted. I was going to then make a jig to connect the two subframes together so once i cut out the floor i can insert the new floor and check the mounts are in the corret place before welding. I also have planned to brace the car from inside to help prevent the cat twisting or flexing where it is not wanted.
Thanks for your input. Hopefully will be at b, will be trying to get as much advice in the time allowed.
dave
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday May 28th, 2007 05:42 pm |
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Does anyone know of anyone who sells / reconditions / exchanges hydro units?? I have had a look around and its the one thing i have not really seen.
Also does anyone have any dimentions of where the boot board brackets go and any dimentions of the boot board.
How does the oil cooler attach onto a mk1 s? Is there brackets coming off the subrame or is there brackets welded onto the front panel?
The bracket that is attached to the rear seats for the lh tank. is the rectangular bracket the studs attached to welded to the rear seat or are they just pushed through.
Thanks dave
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