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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Saturday March 10th, 2007 06:37 pm |
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hiya
i am new to all this mk1 mini stuff. I have read the "bible" by john Parnell and that has answered some questions.
I have been given a mk1 mini.
I have been told this car started as an auto and is now a 1000. Not sure if this is correct. The number on the engine is missing. Is there an easy way of identifying this engine. please bear in mind i am new to mini's.
I have found the chassis number "A-A2S7S-1047558A"
I was wondering if any one can tell me anything about this car from this number.
I have also found another number just above the chassis number which is "FE1 142691" does this mean anthing.
This car has hydrolastic. In peoples opinion what does the car handle best with? rubber cone or hydrolastic?
I am thinking bout changing this car into a cooper s replica. Does anyone know the rough prices of s parts like rh tank, engine/box, 130 speedo so i can work out if this is worth me even considering.
any help will be most appriciated.
thanks dave
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Saturday March 10th, 2007 07:12 pm |
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Hi Dave,
I'm sure Mk3 S Meister will be able to give you all the info regarding chassis numbers etc.
I've got a Mk2 Cooper that I converted to dry suspension back in 89 and changed back to Hydro a couple of years ago. Handling is definately better with dry but the ride is much more civilised with Hydro. Dry is less problematic as well. It really is down to personal preference.
I'm also building a Mk1 S replica. Main reason for this is the lack of suitable 'genuine' cars. I was after 1 of 3 genuine S's to rebuild that someone I know has but gave up after trying for at least 10 years!!
A genuine r/h tank will cost £140-220. An S engine and box at least £800-1000 and that will probably need rebuilding. An S speedo will be £125-200. Then you have the S brakes/servo to think of. And then the Cooper/S brocade interior!!
Those prices are typical eBay prices. If you wait and look around, these items can turn up for less. I have spent several years getting together the bits for my replica. I picked up my r/h tank locally for £75. The brakes for £30, servo for £5. The engine was bought following an advert in the local free-ads for £500 (fully overhauled, rebored etc but not built up).
Main thing to consider when buying 'S' parts is that not all parts advertised as 'S' is actually S. There is so much more S stuff on eBay compared to ordinary Mini's!!!! Best thing, is if you are not sure, ask one of us on the Forum.
I'd say do a replica. You can do the car how you want and for a lot less than buying a genuine S. And have as much fun as well.
Andrew
Last edited on Saturday March 10th, 2007 07:14 pm by Andrew1967 |
Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Saturday March 10th, 2007 11:21 pm |
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From the numbers you quote, the car is a Mk 1 Austin Super de Luxe from early July 1967. The chassis number and FE Number seem to belong together.
If the engine is in the car it is difficult to tell an 848 from a 998 from a 1098.
Most people would agree that Hydrolastic gives a more comfortable ride than dry suspension and with competition bump stops all round and shock absorbers on the front it should handle as well as a dry car.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Thursday March 15th, 2007 07:55 pm |
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Mk 3 S Meister wrote: From the numbers you quote, the car is a Mk 1 Austin Super de Luxe from early July 1967. The chassis number and FE Number seem to belong together.
If the engine is in the car it is difficult to tell an 848 from a 998 from a 1098.
Most people would agree that Hydrolastic gives a more comfortable ride than dry suspension and with competition bump stops all round and shock absorbers on the front it should handle as well as a dry car.
Once the engine is out how can i tell it appart froma 848? 998? 1098?
What exactly does a super de luxe mean? How does this compare to a cooper and a standard mini??
thanks
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taffy1967
Member
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Posted: Friday March 16th, 2007 12:59 pm |
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Well the engine number would have helped, but I imagine there's other ways of telling too? What cylinder head does it have for a start?
And Super De luxe was the name given to a Mini that had a few extras that the more basic model didn't. Such as the oval instrument pod with extra instruments and better trim etc.
It would have had the 848cc engine (in MKI guise), plus the direct (magic wand) gearchange and drum brakes all round too. Where as a Cooper had either the 997cc or later 998cc engine, remote gearchange and disc brakes.
The really rare and short lived Mini Super was a completely different kettle of fish. That came with Cooper trim, fittings and duo tone paint schemes but with the 848cc engine, direct gears and drum brakes all round. Mind you the Cooper borrowed the trim and fittings from the Super. 
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Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday March 16th, 2007 06:35 pm |
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| The Cooper and Super were launched at the same time so it would be more correct to say they shared the trim.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday March 25th, 2007 08:50 pm |
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What exactly is ment by reverse and non reverse rims?
Is it refering to the positioning of the hub in the wheel and therefore offset? What type of wheels where fitted as standard to the cooper s? reverse or non reverse??
thanks
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elanelise
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday March 26th, 2007 03:40 am |
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Hello, cooper s rims are off set to clear the larger calipers,reverse rims were produced for drum braked and cooper non s models,and regarding your question of chassis number the AA prefix denotes auto transmission.
all the best
JohnLast edited on Monday March 26th, 2007 03:44 am by elanelise |
dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday March 26th, 2007 07:00 am |
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So wheels advertised as cooper s reverse wheels are not origional cooper s wheels really?? What casting block numbers do i need to look at to determine which engine size i have?
thanks dave
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Mk 3 S Meister
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday March 26th, 2007 07:43 am |
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Reverse rim wheels would not have been fitted to a Cooper S from new.
If it is a non A Plus 998 or 1098 i.e. an old engine it will have 12A 497 cast in the back of the block. Externally they look the same, the only way to tell them apart is to look for numbers on the crankshaft.
I think most 850s have 850 cast in the back of the block.
and regarding your question of chassis number the AA prefix denotes auto transmission
No it doesn't.
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elanelise
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday March 26th, 2007 01:47 pm |
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I stand corrected 
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618AOG
Member
| Joined: | Tuesday March 14th, 2006 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 182 |
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Posted: Monday March 26th, 2007 02:20 pm |
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| Just hope it's not Maroon B, the only Mini colour never used on the Cooper or S. What colour is it?
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday April 1st, 2007 11:46 am |
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The car is red at the moment. Once i have Changed some panels i will get it resprayed red with a black roof.
My engine has those marking cast into the block. So the next step to identification is the numbers on the crank correct?
Where exactly are these numbers (and what do the numbers mean?) and how far do you need to strip the engine to find out??
I am also looking for s parts and a pair of doors if any one kows anything. How much roughly should a decent set of doors be that need respraying a small amount of tlc? £100? less or more?? thanks
Thanks dave
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday April 15th, 2007 08:06 pm |
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Hiya
How can i tell the differnce between the reverse rims and standard rims by looking at the wheels? Does anyone know what the offset should be on a set of standard 4.5inch s wheels.
Some one has contacted me and has a set of 4.5inch wide wheels with 1.5inch offset and the 9 cooling holes. He doesnt think they are reverse but is not sure. How can i tell if these are standard 4.5j s wheels??. Thanks
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DaveShreeve
Administrator
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Posted: Sunday April 15th, 2007 10:33 pm |
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| Links for rim info can be found at the end of posts in 'new buy' in the Mk3 Cars section.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday April 22nd, 2007 09:40 pm |
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| Thank you so much for the help everyone is giving me. my knowledge is slowly growing.
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday April 22nd, 2007 10:03 pm |
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hiya, following a wanted add i have been offered an s engine.
The young lad doesnt seem to know all that much about it but i think this is inexperience rather than pull a fast one.
I have not yet looked at the engine because it is a fair distance from me but he has sent me some pictures i will list on here.
I cant see if it has the tappet covers due to the manifold being on and also the angle of the shot.
the engine number starts with 12h which means 1275? correct? can seem to get any of the other numbers to man anything tho.
It doesnt seem to have the remote change but the diff casing looks differnt to the one i have outside on a standard mini engine. Could this be for remote change?
What sort of date is the engine from. he thinks its a late 60s.
Is this the type of 1275 engine fitted to a cooper s mk1?
If the opinion on here suggests this is a real engine what other signs are there to tell if this is a made up engine or an origional when i go and look at it? extra casting marks/numbers?
thanks very much yet again
dave
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Sunday April 22nd, 2007 10:10 pm |
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erm having abit of trouble posting the pics as they are abit big. Ill try and work out how to make them smaller and then try again.
dave
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elanelise
MCR Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 03:31 am |
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Try and find a copy of "original mini cooper and cooper`s`" by John Parnell
Last edited on Monday April 23rd, 2007 03:32 am by elanelise |
dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Monday April 23rd, 2007 08:21 am |
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I have a copy of that but still am sure about alot of things
thanks dave
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