| Author | Post |
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CT4NH
MCR Member
| Joined: | Friday September 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Lisbon, Portugal |
| Posts: | 42 |
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 06:35 am |
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I’m just about to install the front sub frame w/ engine in the car, but one doubt...
The front sub frame was wet and I ‘ve modified it to dry.
Should I use the # 21A87 ‘pad –pressure-tower to bulkhead cross member’ as dry sub frames have, even being an hydro one, or should I install it (sub-frame) directly to the bulkhead cross member without that pad-pressure part (#21A87), as it was before ?
Hydro subframe (flat in the upper part of the tower), by any chance, is taller than the dry one (not flat - having 2 little 'protuberances'
surrounding the screw holes) ?
Thanks!
Luis
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 03:12 pm |
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| Email sent Luis
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Mini4Ever
MCR Member
| Joined: | Saturday March 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | Netherlands |
| Posts: | 511 |
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 07:52 pm |
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Just fit the hydro frame to the car as if it would still be hydro - so without the spacers. If you convert a hydro front frame to dry suspension, you will need to modify either the frame locating ring or the suspension rubbers. In either way, you will need to compensate for the difference in height. It depends on wether you are using the original wet top arms or dry top arms how much you need to compensate.
I recently converted a hydro car to a dry car by using an unmodified front subframe but modifying the suspension rubbers so that they fit straight to the surface in the towers. Since I used dry top arms, I needed a hi-lo kit to ensure that the car was not sitting too extremely low...
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 07:55 pm |
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Mini4Ever wrote: Just fit the hydro frame to the car as if it would still be hydro - so without the spacers. If you convert a hydro front frame to dry suspension, you will need to modify either the frame locating ring or the suspension rubbers. In either way, you will need to compensate for the difference in height. It depends on wether you are using the original wet top arms or dry top arms how much you need to compensate.
I recently converted a hydro car to a dry car by using an unmodified front subframe but modifying the suspension rubbers so that they fit straight to the surface in the towers. Since I used dry top arms, I needed a hi-lo kit to ensure that the car was not sitting too extremely low...
Bart, that clarifies what I thought and what I mentioned in my email to Luis.
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CT4NH
MCR Member
| Joined: | Friday September 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Lisbon, Portugal |
| Posts: | 42 |
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 08:55 pm |
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Thanks Andrew, your e-mail not received (storm in Biscay Gulf, I suppose) ,yet , but all understood. I've kept the wet arms due to its 'geometric' advantages when compared with dry ones. I've also used Hi-Los.
Thanks. Luis
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 09:07 pm |
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Luis,
Email just resent - you should get one of them 
Regards
Andrew
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CT4NH
MCR Member
| Joined: | Friday September 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Lisbon, Portugal |
| Posts: | 42 |
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Posted: Thursday May 15th, 2008 09:49 pm |
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| Got it! All OK! Thanks
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ka2s4
Member
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Posted: Friday May 16th, 2008 11:55 am |
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Andrew, why did you not post it here?
Isn't that the purpose of the forum - to share the wisdom?
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Friday May 16th, 2008 12:04 pm |
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James,
It's because Luis emailed me prior to starting the thread and Bart beat me to the reply on here. No point in repeating what has been said.
But as you have commented, the tower of a Hydro subframe is roughly 6mm higher than that of a dry one, hence the necessity of a spacer on the dry subframe.
Andrew
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CT4NH
MCR Member
| Joined: | Friday September 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Lisbon, Portugal |
| Posts: | 42 |
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Posted: Friday May 16th, 2008 03:55 pm |
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Sorry James, my fault But being a newcomer sometimes I dont want to be bothering forum residents with naive questions (some of them, I can see now, not so naive...)
Again my excuses.
Luis
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ka2s4
Member
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Posted: Saturday May 17th, 2008 06:39 am |
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that is interesting, i never knew the spacers were only used on dry frames, i have only restored dry cars.
I'm sure i would have found out the hard way in due course though
J
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 20th, 2008 07:21 am |
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| what are the differnces between the dry upper arms and wet ones. will be converting my subframes aswell.
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ka2s4
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 20th, 2008 09:13 am |
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The wet arms have the rubber buffer on them, secured thru the hole used for the shock mount on a dry arm.
A dry car has the buffer on the subframe pointing down at the arm, there are 2 holes to secure it, but on a wet frame there are no holes and a reinforcing web behind.
The main diference is that the big hole for the ball on the end of the strut is closer to the pivot point on a dry arm, so if wet arms are used in a dry setup the effective spring rate will be harder, than a std dry setup.
J
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dgear1984
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 20th, 2008 10:06 am |
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WHERE DOES THE DAMPER MOUNT. ITS A SPECIAL STUD THAT REPLACES A PLAIN BOLT CORRECT?
DO MUCH DIFFENT IS THE HOLES? 5MM? 10MM? WILL THAT MAKE IT ALOT STIFFER (BIG GAP) OR ONLY SLIGHT (SMALL GAP)
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ka2s4
Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 20th, 2008 10:46 am |
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The difference is only small and i don't know how much stiffer it makes it.
The stud for the shock includes the collar or boss.
Red is hydro.
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Andrew1967
MCR Member
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Posted: Tuesday May 20th, 2008 11:34 am |
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| The hole for the shock mounting stud will need to be drilled out to size.
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Current time is 03:08 am | |
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