Mini Cooper Register Home
 Search       Login   Register   Members   Help   Home 
Search by username
Mini Cooper Register > Mk1 Coopers > Mk1 Cars > Indentify 1071cc engine

Indentify 1071cc engine
 Moderated by: Peter Moss, mcrwebmaster  
 New Topic   Reply   Print 
AuthorPost
DadoG
Member
 

Joined: Thursday March 13th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 13
 Posted: Monday May 5th, 2008 06:31 pm
 Quote  Reply 
How can I identify a real 1071 cooper s engine block?

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Monday May 5th, 2008 10:55 pm
 Quote  Reply 
hi,  it should have the following features:-  AEG 151 cast into rear face, tappet chest covers, an aluminium plate stamped 1070 [often missing], the gearbox flange is 'thin' as in the picture. The main bearing caps are held on by bolts, not studs and nuts. The head face should have the two extra stud holes at either end. the bores should be between 70.6 to 72mm [depending on piston size]. The engine number ally plate[again often missing] should start 9F/SA/H ***** or 9FD/SA/H*****.THe 'deck' height of the block [head face to g/box face] should be approx 218mm.

If all that checks out ok have a look at the numbers stamped into main bearing caps, there should be a corresponding number stamped on rear of block or by the water pump. If these numbers don't match it has the wrong b/caps fitted.

look at the top face of block, if the block hasn't been skimmed the manufactures piston codes should still be visible. these are a number  stamped inside a diamond symbol [see pic] Check the main bearings for any sign of the bearings spinning in their housings and check for any signs of the crank touching the thrust washer retention  flange, also check for signs of the crank touching no.1 b/cap. or any 'blueing' on thrust washer faces.

the 970 s ran the same block  Hope that helps Bob

 ps if you find a good one I'll give you a tenner for it     `:D

Attachment: 1071 block 005.jpg (Downloaded 72 times)

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Monday May 5th, 2008 11:00 pm
 Quote  Reply 
The reason for the AEG151 'card' in the first picture is because that block is a later AEG312 casting!  the second pic shows the extra two studs and the piston code no's

                                     Bob

 

Attachment: 1071 block 006.jpg (Downloaded 62 times)

DadoG
Member
 

Joined: Thursday March 13th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 13
 Posted: Tuesday May 6th, 2008 06:14 am
 Quote  Reply 
Great! Thank you very much.

DadoG
Member
 

Joined: Thursday March 13th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 13
 Posted: Thursday May 8th, 2008 11:23 am
 Quote  Reply 
... and how identify 1275 Cooper S block?

 

... and gearbox? Casting numbers etc?

Last edited on Thursday May 8th, 2008 11:24 am by DadoG

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Sunday May 11th, 2008 12:02 am
 Quote  Reply 
DadoG wrote: ... and how identify 1275 Cooper S block?

 

... and gearbox? Casting numbers etc?

Much the same as my last post. all three 'S' motors shared the same bore diameter, with the 1275 block being taller to accommodate the longer stroke.

look for:- AEG 312 cast into block, 1275 ally plate , extra two head studs, deck height of approx 226mm. bores of 70.6 [std] to 72.2 [+060], tappet chest covers, engine numbers, 9F-SA-Y 3**** or 9FD-SA-Y 3**** or 9F-XE-Y 5****. early blocks were thin flange up to around 1969 when it changed to a much thicker version [not sure if the casting no. changed here].

Check the m/bearing cap numbers  to the block as before, check the g/box flange threads are still 1/4UNF, some blocks used for competition were opened out to 5/16UNF which would require your g/box flange to be drilled out and the use of caphead bolts, or you can get inserts to bring it back to 1/4 UNF. Check if the block has been linered, not the end of the world, but expect to pay less for a linered block.

some more pictures.   regards '1275' Bob:D

Attachment: 1275 block 1.jpg (Downloaded 41 times)

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Sunday May 11th, 2008 12:11 am
 Quote  Reply 
This pictures shows what happens to the thrust retention  flange when the thrust washers wear away, usually caused by a combination of  lightened flywheels, competition clutches, and poorly adjusted clutches.  Notice  the 'blueing on the thrust face and the flange  [arrowed] worn away.

Attachment: 1275 block 3.jpg (Downloaded 46 times)

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Sunday May 11th, 2008 12:14 am
 Quote  Reply 
And that causes the crank to be pushed into the back of number one bearing cap!:(

Attachment: 1275 block 2.jpg (Downloaded 43 times)

1071bob
MCR Member
 

Joined: Thursday November 22nd, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 73
 Posted: Sunday May 11th, 2008 12:23 am
 Quote  Reply 
Last one of the bottom face, this one has been drilled out to 5/16UNF.

As for the gearbox data:- Lifes too short to go through that:D have a look at mini4evers excellent listing at:-  http://mcr.mywowbb.com/forum30/1257.html    [thanks Dave]

   ps I have four 1275 blocks for sale:)    Bob                                                                        

Attachment: 1275 block 4.jpg (Downloaded 49 times)

DadoG
Member
 

Joined: Thursday March 13th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 13
 Posted: Sunday May 11th, 2008 06:53 am
 Quote  Reply 
Thank you for the info.

I've sent you a private message. Let me know.

Regards

Mini4Ever
MCR Member


Joined: Saturday March 17th, 2007
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 461
 Posted: Monday May 12th, 2008 12:35 pm
 Quote  Reply 
Weren't there also 1071 blocks that had a fuel pump hole with a blanking plate? I'm not sure but I think I saw one of those not so long ago. I wan's sure whether it was original or machined :?

masnarda
Member


Joined: Sunday January 7th, 2007
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 155
 Posted: Monday May 12th, 2008 04:49 pm
 Quote  Reply 
all the ones I've seen were closed

Last edited on Monday May 12th, 2008 04:50 pm by masnarda

mk1coopers
MCR Member
 

Joined: Wednesday September 12th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 125
 Posted: Monday May 12th, 2008 05:16 pm
 Quote  Reply 
I've seen blocks with the hole opened out, but both have been eary FJ blocks

DadoG
Member
 

Joined: Thursday March 13th, 2008
Location:  
Posts: 13
 Posted: Tuesday May 13th, 2008 03:22 pm
 Quote  Reply 
1071bob wrote: Last one of the bottom face, this one has been drilled out to 5/16UNF.

As for the gearbox data:- Lifes too short to go through that:D have a look at mini4evers excellent listing at:-  http://mcr.mywowbb.com/forum30/1257.html    [thanks Dave]

   ps I have four 1275 blocks for sale:)    Bob                                                                        

 Hi Bob,

I'm interested to buy a good 1275 "S" block. Please send me an e-mail with the price and some photoes.

Regards

Dario

dgear1984
Member
 

Joined: Tuesday January 10th, 2006
Location: Woking, Surrey, United Kingdom
Posts: 163
 Posted: Tuesday May 13th, 2008 06:56 pm
 Quote  Reply 
pm sent to bob.

emails dgear1984@aol.com


 Current time is 03:13 am




Powered by WowBB 1.62 - Copyright © 2003-2004 Aycan Gulez
Page processed in 0.6637 seconds (77% database + 23% PHP). 18 queries executed.