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main beam wiring on a mk1 help needed
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littlenik
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Joined: Monday April 16th, 2007
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 Posted: Tuesday April 22nd, 2008 12:31 am
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hi my mk1 is fitted with a redundant floor mounted dip switch and the regulation 2 position flick switch (sidelights then main lights) by the centrally mounted ignition key

the mini is using a later mini type loom so behind the headlamps( halogens) i have a wire for main lights blue/red and also main beam blue/white as well as the black ground wire and the sidelights are wired in below as per later mini

my question is this :

as i have a works type dash i want to wire a main beam flasher switch so do i need to run a seperate relay setup and wire in to the blue/white main beam wire at the headlamp end?

i want to be able to turn on the lights using the flick switch by the ign key then drive as normal but be able to flash main beam from my works dash switch

any help would be appreciated:?

COOPERCO
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Joined: Friday August 11th, 2006
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 Posted: Tuesday April 22nd, 2008 08:38 pm
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Hi,

I have a similar set up in one of our cars to that you are after. I used a headlight change over relay from a Volvo 340 series. Every time it gets an earth pulse it changes from dip to main. There is an additional wire from the light switch to tell the relay that the headlights are on, when they are off the same pulse gives you main beam flash every time (ie not flashing dip beam then main alternately!) There is even a handy wiring diagram printed on the relay body. All you need is a long flasher switch in your works dash & hide the relay behind the panel (also keeps the wiring runs short). If I remember correctly a standard loom with the extension for the floor mounted switch is long enough to reach behind the panel, so even less connections.

If you want to pinch a relay from your local breakers find a 340 Volvo open the bonnet, find the fuse box on the bulkhead drivers side. The relay you want is the 1" square silver one.

 

 

littlenik
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Joined: Monday April 16th, 2007
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 Posted: Tuesday April 22nd, 2008 11:46 pm
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:) thanks for the help,i think ill probably run the mainbeam flasher switch through a 30 amp relay and feed it to the headlamp direct like later minis so regular driving will use dip beam and then main beam from the works dash in front of me

i cant see why this wont work

many thanks

 

COOPERCO
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 Posted: Wednesday April 23rd, 2008 08:28 pm
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Hi,

What are you going to use to break the dip beam circuit when you go to mains? Or are you just trying to flash the lights? You don't want both elements in the headlamp on at the same time as you'll get high current draw (especialy if your on a dynamo!) & hot headlights! The original floor dip switch changes from one circuit to the other, something you need to repeat some how.

 

littlenik
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 Posted: Thursday April 24th, 2008 12:27 am
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:? sadly the engine has been replaced with an a plus unit so i now have an alternator instead of dynamo. i was under the impression that the driving lights remained on when you flash full beam but i didnt realise they switch off altogether if full beam is selected to drive with....hmmm

now im stuck ! my dip switch doesnt do anything when pressed and my lights are not that bright as they are fixed on dip even with wipac halogens

so how do i replicate a modern cars lighting? can i drive as normal and if i need to select main beam ?

COOPERCO
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 Posted: Monday April 28th, 2008 08:46 pm
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Using an alternator instead of a dynamo makes no real difference to the lighting!

I think you need to find a friendly auto electician or a keen enthusiast with some spare time to make your assorted system work.

 

littlenik
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Joined: Monday April 16th, 2007
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 Posted: Wednesday April 30th, 2008 12:24 am
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bizarely my dip switch has started working although a bit stiff so ill just run some wiring to the new switch and jobs done anybody happen to know what the three wires on the dip switch correspond too?

COOPERCO
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 Posted: Wednesday April 30th, 2008 08:47 pm
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Hi,

At the dip switch you should have a blue wire, this is the power supply to the dipswitch from the headlight switch. You should also then have a blue wire with a red trace, this is the dipped beam wire. Finaly you should have a blue with a white trace, this is the main beam wire. 

littlenik
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Joined: Monday April 16th, 2007
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 Posted: Wednesday April 30th, 2008 10:12 pm
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many thanks ,i managed to trace the diagram using my haynes manual ,suprisingly easier than i imagined so what i need is a hand operated switch which will break the dip ciruit and switch on the main beams when i need to wiring is not a problem for me just need to find a suitable switch any pointers?
thanks:D

Last edited on Wednesday April 30th, 2008 10:19 pm by littlenik

DaveShreeve
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Joined: Wednesday October 19th, 2005
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 Posted: Wednesday April 30th, 2008 11:37 pm
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You'll have to be careful with that one as you'll need something which makes the main before cutting the dip and vice versa. If you get a normal changeover switch you could end up in darkness during changeover - not good!:shock:

Reckon COOPERCO's setup is probably easier to sort.

Last edited on Wednesday April 30th, 2008 11:38 pm by DaveShreeve

littlenik
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 Posted: Wednesday April 30th, 2008 11:46 pm
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hmmm. yes your right  i do like the floor mounted dip switch but i find mine requires too much force to operate it maybe i should look in to rectifying mine instead of making things harder for myself !:D

DaveShreeve
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Joined: Wednesday October 19th, 2005
Location: Sheffield, United Kingdom
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 Posted: Thursday May 1st, 2008 12:02 am
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Any reason for not changing the switch? Not cheap from Minispares but half price if you get the same thing for a Series Landrover.  http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Electrics/Dipswitch_S11_and_11A_floor_mounted.html

littlenik
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Joined: Monday April 16th, 2007
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 Posted: Thursday May 1st, 2008 10:59 pm
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dave than you ill fix mine and leave it alone istead of trying to mess around with it , now then all i got to do is convert the p22d bulbs in my lucas slr700 spots to run on h7 bulbs ! ...hmmm:D

Last edited on Thursday May 1st, 2008 11:05 pm by littlenik


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